Eremito, Umbria, Italy
Live like a monk at this ‘digital detox’ hermitage in the Umbrian hills.
All photographs by Hotel Palette
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This might be the most unique hotel I’ve ever visited. I reviewed it for Telegraph Travel and needed to give it a mark out of ten against the usual luxury resorts, chain hotels and traditional B&Bs in the region. But there is nothing comparable here at all. How do I mark facilities when there intentionally aren’t any, or food and drink when there’s zero choice as the owner considers such “the ultimate luxury”? There’s just red wine and tap water, by the way, and both is served in clay cups.
Eremito was dreamt up by ex-fashion designer Marcello Murzilli. Inspired by Franciscan monasteries, he’s passionate about offering a disconnected and deeply restorative retreat from the digital world, creating a brand new concept in the sphere of luxury travel.
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Murzilli drove thousands of kilometres with his dog Beppo to find the perfect spot and eventually purchased an entire valley in the Umbrian hills from which to run his retreat. So remote it is that guests must park in a designated lay-by, sent via GPS coordinates, to be collected in an old 4×4. It’s bumpy dirt tracks the rest of the way, and the anticipation as the Land Rover ascends the final hill is quite something. It’s a digital detox by design, as there’s not a dot of signal up here.
If you like exploring different experiences, are up for travelling alone and don’t mind feeling occasionally uncomfortable then bingo, you’ll love it at Eremito. You relinquish your phone at check-in. There are 21 single bedrooms, so come alone. Dinner is eaten in silence at rectory table to the sound of Gregorian chanting and occasional cooking noises from the kitchen.
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The “celluze” bedrooms were inspired by monastic cells and are pared back but surprisingly comfortable. My room featured a single iron-framed bed, heavy hemp sheets, rock-hewn desk, sackcloth curtains, brass rain shower and tumbled marble sink. Soaps are handmade by Marcello’s sister and shampoo is decanted into little brass dishes. The view from my “cell” was of rolling, wooded hills as far as the eye can see, most cinematic in the early, misty mornings.
I found the silent dinner decidedly awkward, but I compulsively fill silences with inconsequential chatter so perhaps it’s just what I needed to cure this affliction? The full board rate includes lunch and a four-course dinner. Dinner is a set menu of simple vegetarian dishes inspired by traditional monastic recipes (think: pulses, root veg, soup, pasta), eaten at long communal tables in silence. Once my cup of wine was refilled a few times and I was better equipped to ignore my inherent awkwardness, it admittedly did become pretty extraordinary. A gong was bonged to signal the end of dinner and the group moved into the lounge to read and talk (finally!) by the fire. Trays of sugary apple tea were offered around.
Breakfast is also served in the dining room. Cereal, yogurt, fruit, bread, jams, etc. are displayed on an attractive buffet table, while scrambled eggs are cooked to order. Lunch is a relaxed, chatty affair hosted by Marcello himself in the garden. When I was there, it was a salad and simple pasta dish.
"Can you imagine sleeping in the reception of a Sheraton? It would never happen! Here, we’ve had people falling asleep by the fire and I wake them the next morning with an espresso."
– Marcello, in conversation with Hotel Palette
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The building looks centuries-old but it’s actually a new build. Marcello and his team built the hotel from the ground up on the footprint of a derelict building using 13th century Italian masonry techniques. A sustainable photovoltaic electricity system was also incorporated – not that it’s needed for lighting, as candlelight throughout creates a meditative (if not slightly dim) atmosphere. Every surface has a natural or handmade quality to it, from the cups and plates used at mealtimes to the deep stone walls and their rough, tactile texture. Everything feels like its always been there – even the luxurious rain showers are made from brass with a beautifully tarnished patina.
I looked through guest reviews, and this “little hotel of the soul” is an extremely divisive place. One person described it as a “spartan hotel with no facilities”; I admittedly loved the theatre-set quality of the rustic interiors: everything is deeply considered and any absence is intentional. But if you don’t like sitting on a cushion on the floor, perhaps don’t come here.
I also liked the family-style service. Marcello’s small team is completely charming, and includes his brother Sergio and two childhood friends. Guests are made to feel part of a family home rather than a guest at a hotel. Expect warm hugs goodbye, here.
"I love Umbria, it’s unknown and wild. It is the land of spirituality. Yesterday we were 7 people eating in 3,000 hectares. No-one else in the whole valley. No village, no electricity posts, no farms. I mean come on, we are not in Tibet, we are in Italy. This is Umbria. And only 20 minutes from the highway."
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It’s true that there are no facilities. I’m sure a pool wouldn’t go amiss on hot summer days (I was there in Autumn), and a bar would be nice. Instead, there’s a daily programme beginning with morning readings in the chapel and a yoga class. Breakfast is served at 8.30am, after which guests are invited for a walk in the woods. The group reconvenes for lunch in the garden with conversation mostly led by Marcello, who misses no opportunity assume his role as storyteller.
There are lots of hiking trails to the nearest village or through the valley that guests can take guided as a group or alone. The small spa (a plunge pool and stone steam room) opens from 5pm which is perfect for a pre-dinner wind-down. Slippers and earth-brown robes with ridiculous, monkish pointed hoods are provided. There’s nothing else to do or to think about at Eremito, which is quite the point.
The bottom line
Come here if you’re burnt out and need to rest alone, if you’re looking for space to write or create, or if new hospitality concepts intrigue you. It’s another world.